The K-Zone: Kevin's Shotokan kata notes: heian sandan
Most Shotokan karate students are introduced to heian sandan
after they have been training for about six months. It appears
superficially to be easier than heian nidan,
and it probably is, in a technical sense at least. There are (probably)
no kicks, no great demands are made of your sense of balance, and
no contortions are necessary. Athletically, sandan is something
of a relief after the demands of nidan.
What sandan requires, which nidan on the whole does
not -- and which probably accounts for why it is considered
slightly more advanced -- is a greater control of body dynamics.
To do sandan well you need to be able to follow very
fast, agressive moves with slow, controlled moves, all interspersed
with dead stops. In addition, for most students this kata
is the first to be encountered of which a large part is
done in horse stance. You need to be able to step around
in horse stance, and switch from forward stance, to back stance,
to horse stance, and back again, to do sandan well.
In what follows, I describe the directions of movement as if
you start facing to the north. East is to your right, west to your
left. When I say `step to the left', I mean `step to your left',
not `step to the left of the room'.
Performance line for heian sandan; the starting position
is shown as a blue spot
The movements of the kata follow a basic `I', shape, starting
and finishing at the centre of the base of the `I'. However, the
top stroke of the `I' and part of the bottom stroke are
missing, making the performance line
simpler even than heian shodan.
0. Preparation. The kata proper starts in
yoi (`ready' or `attention') stance. Your feet are about
shoulder-width apart, toes pointing north, hands in fists just in
front of your waist. If you're doing it for a competition,
there will be certain formalities, such as a bow before assuming
attention stance.
1. Inside block to the west in back stance. Look decisively
to the west (your left at this point); then drop and turn
your hips slightly
while cocking your arms for inside block. You right arm should
be more-or-less fully extended towards the west, while your left
arm is underneath it, fist almost in your armpit. Your shoulders
should be almost square to the west -- unless you're very supple
you won't be able to get them fully square while your feet are
still pointing north. Step out to your left with your left
foot, while keeping your torso as still as possible. As you
step, inside block with your left arm, pulling your right fist
back to your right hip, and twising your shoulders
back to be square to the north. It is this twising action that
gives the block its strength. You should finish this move fully
in back stance. Note that if you do it properly, your torso
has only moved a few inches to the west.
2. Double-arm block to the west. This move may be interpreted
as two simultaneous blocks, or as a breaking move, rather like the
scissor block of heian nidan. In outline, what you do is
to step up to your extended left foot with your right foot, while
simulateously making two blocking moves -- a downward block with
your right arm, and an inside block with your left. Here's the same
move broken down with more detail.
From the back stance and inside block position, step forward with
your right foot, so that your feet are touching, and toes pointing
west. At the same time extend your right arm in front of you at
waist height. Next, cock your left arm for the downward block
by moving your outstretched left arm to your right shoulder. Block
sharply with both arms -- downward block with left, inside block with
right. Your forearms should almost touch if you're doing it properly.
It's very hard to get much strength in this move, because your can't
twist your hips. So it's important to cock your arms before
blocking, so that there's an adequate range of movement.
At some point during this move you'll need to straighten your
legs, so you're standing upright. Opinions differ on when this should
be. In my experience, most experts keep their knees bent while stepping
the feet together, then stand up sharply while doing the double block.
Some people move directly from back stance to an upright position,
then do the double block. If you interpret the double block as
a catching or breaking move, then arguably it makes more sense to
stand sharply while doing the block, as this will add greater
strength to the move.
3. Double-arm block to the west. This move is the mirror image
if move 2, and some authorities consider it to be part of the same
move. Block downwards with your right arm, and inside block with your
left. As in move 2, you'll need to cock your arms before the blocks
to get much strength in them.
4. Inside block to the east in back stance.
This move is the mirror image of move 1. Look sharply over your shoulder
to the east, then cock your arms for inside block. Your left arm extends
to the east, while your right fist is underneath it, near your left
armpit. Step out with your right foot into back stance, while doing
inside block with your right arm, and bringing your left fist back to
your left hip.
5, 6 Two double-arm blocks to the east. Moves 5 and 6 are the
mirror images of 2 and 3. Step up with the left foot to the right
and block down with the right arm, inside block with the left; then
block down with the left arm and inside block with the right. Straighten
your legs before or during the first double block.
7. Reinforced inside block to the north in back stance. Look
north, drop your hips slightly, and step out with the left foot to
the north, while cocking your arms for the reinforced inside block.
Both fists should come to the right hip, or even further to your
right depending on how you interpret this move. Block with your
left arm, supported by your right fist. Finish the move fully in
back stance.
8. Spear-hand strike to the north. Press down with your
outstretched left hand, so that your hand ends up palm down
in front of your chest. Step forward with your
right foot, so that you move into front stance, right foot
forward. Do a spear-hand strike at midsection height with your
right hand at midsection height. Your right elbow should end up
resting lightly on the knuckles of your left hand.
9. Turn 270 degrees and hammer-fist strike to the north.
This move is usually interpreted as dislodging a grab to your outstretched
right arm, then following up with a hammer-fist strike. Start by
twisting your right spear-hand anticlockwise so that your thumb
starts to point downwards. As the hand starts to turn, turn your
whole torso such that your right shoulder moves towards your left;
this will have the effect of pulling your outstretched right arm
even further from your opponent. Follow this move up by stepping
up with your left foot to your right foot, such that you end
up with your back to your opponent, feet together. Your
right arm is now fully withdrawn, and the back of your right
hand is resting on or near your right hip. Continue the turn
by stepping out into horse stance (kiba dachi) with your
hips and shoulders square to the east. As you step, hammer-fist
strike to your opponent's neck.
These moves sound unwieldy when described in this detail, but in fact
are quite flowing when done smoothly. You do, at some point, have
to turn your back on your imaginary opponent, but this is only
for an instant as part of the block. The turn has two effects -- it
dislodges a grab to your right arm, while generating the momentum
for a forceful hammer-fist.
10. Stepping punch in right front stance. Step out of the
horse stance into a new front stance, with your right leg forward.
Punch at midsection height and kiai. You'll need to
rotate your feet to point north before starting the step,
because they start in entirely the wrong direction for a
step. This is a situation where you do have to move
your feet before a stepping punch, despite a general recommendation
to avoid doing so.
In general, most experts do moves 8-10 in quick succession,
while move 11 (next) is slow.
11. Turn to the south while standing up. Rotate 180 degrees
on your right heel while pulling your left foot up to your right.
Make fists with both hands, and bring the knuckles to rest on your
hips. The backs of your hands should face forward, otherwise the next
move will be difficult. Most experts do the turn quickly while keeping
their knees bent, then straighten up slowly once they are facing
directly south. Doing it this way looks as though you're more in
control than if you stand up during the turn.
Once you're fully upright and facing south, hold this position
for a second or two. The turn, stand, and pause are generally seen
as martialling your strength for the next, very aggressive part of
the kata.
12-13. Leg block, stamp down into horse stance,
and back-fist strike to the south.
You'll get to do this move three times in total, so somebody must have
thought it was important. There is quite a lot of heated debate about
what your leg is doing during this move. Some authorities maintain that
the leg makes a crescent kick; others see the leg movement
as a sweeping action. The JKA intepretation is that the leg is simply
raised to ward off a kick at thigh height. Another view is that all
you're doing is raising the foot to prepare for the following downward
stamp. In any event, whether you kick, sweep, block, or simply
raise, the first part of this move ends up with your right knee raised
high in front of your groin, while keeping everything else still.
Then twist on your left heel while stamping down forcefully with
your right foot. You will land naturally in horse stance, shoulders and
hips square to the east. As you land, block a punch with your right elbow,
while keeping your fist on your hip. Then back-fist strike at your
opponent's head with your right fist. Finally, draw back your right first
so that it ends up back on your right hip, knuckles forward. Your
left fist is already in this position, as it hasn't move at all during the
move.
14-15. Leg block, stamp down into horse stance,
and back-fist strike to the south. This is the same moves as moves
12-13, except that you're stamping and striking with opposite arms and
legs.
16-17. Leg block, stamp down into horse stance,
and back-fist strike to the south. This is the same moves
moves 12-13. Although moves 12-13, 14-15, and 16-17 are
identical, most experts don't seem
to vary the tempo between the moves. They just go: raise - stamp -
strike - raise - stamp - strike - raise - stamp - -strike.
18a. Palm heel strike to the south with the right hand.
In horse stance, cock the arms for a right-hand palm heel strike.
Bring your right hand, palm open, over your left shoulder, little
finger facing down.
Some people extend the left arm in front, but some don't.
At the same time, rotate on your heels so that your feet
are pointing somewhat towards the south. In doing this, shift
into front stance. This front stance will be of much less than
proper width, and rather unstable. However, you won't be in
it very long. As you shift on your heels into front stance,
palm heel strike with your right hand at midsection height. There
is some debate about whether this move is a strike, a block, or
a push; most authorities do it quite slowly, and make the following
move very fast.
18b. Left stepping punch in front stance. Directly from the
left palm-heel strike (or block, or push) step smartly forward
with the left leg into a normal front stance, and punch
to the south with the left fist at midsection height.
19. Turn 180 degrees into horse stance, punching over your left shoulder. You can do this move in one step, but most authorities show two distinct
moves. The first move is to step up with your right leg to your left leg,
so that your feet are about shoulder-width apart. Your left fist remains
extended, as it was for the stepping punch. The second move is to rotate
180 degrees on your right heel, stepping up and down with the left foot
into a new horse stance.
You're now facing north. As the foot lands in horse stance, punch with your
right fist over your left shoulder.
20. Slide east in horse stance, punching over your right shoulder. Slide about two feet to your right (east), while punching with your left fist
over your right shoulder. Remain in horse stance throughout. Kiai
on this last move.
21. Finish. Slide your right foot back to your left to resume
attention stance.
Here are a few things to watch out for.
When performing the two sets of double-arm blocks at the start of
the kata, it's easy to `windmill' your arms to block. You can't
block strongly by rotating your arms at the elbows, unless you've got
shoulder's like Popeye the Sailor Man. For the rest of us, it is
necessary to involve the tricep and the bicep in the block, which means
you need to cock your arms properly, with your forearms almost touching
before doing the block. With practice, this can be done reasonably
quickly.
In a competition, the judges will expect your toes and heels to
be touching in those points in the kata where your feet are
together. That is, in the two double-arm blocks and the point before
the stamps in horse stance. It doesn't add anything to these moves
as fighting techniques, but it shows that you have good awareness
of the exact positions of your extremities.
The stamps are real stamps, not steps. In general, followers of the
JKA Shotokan style think it is bad manners to stamp on the ground
during kata to make the moves sound more decisive. This is
considered showy and superficial. However, these three moves in
heian sandan are one of the rare places where it is considered
de rigeur to stamp. You are, in effect, stomping down on your
opponent's shin, which would be a disabling move if done strongly
enough.