The K-Zone: A G-scale garden railway: what I've learned
Since I recently moved house, work on this railway, and these
pages, has ceased. I am currently working on a
new G-scale railway, taking
into account what I learned from this one.
Things that worked
- The method I adopted for constructing the trackbed -- building
a bed of coarse grit mixed with cement, and then dampening it when
the positioning is correct -- seemed to work really well. The track
held its position very well throughout the changing seasons, and
needed very little maintenance. The rigid fixing meant that the
track was easy to clean, and I could use a stiff brush to sweep off
the dead leaves and cat poo. The mounting proved to be quite strong
enough for children to trample all over without ill effect.
- On reflection, I'm glad I didn't go to the trouble of soldering
jumper wires across the track joints, or clamping them together, as
it would have been a wasted effort. A dab of graphite paste worked perfectly
well, and we never had any problems with continuity. However, our total
track length was much smaller than most garden railways, so this isn't
an enormous surprise.
- The relatively inexpensive LGB loco and coaches survived a whole winter
outdoors 24 hours a day, and are still running perfectly
well. Young Max wrenched the roofs
off both the coaches and filled them with Bob the Builder figures, but
that doesn't seem to have affected their operation. Apart from the odd
drop of oil, they've needed no maintenance at all.
- The buildings that I finished with outdoor varnish survived both
the heat and the cold well. When I dismantled the railway for moving,
they came up in one piece, and will be redeployed on the new railway.
See below for what happened to the other buildings.
Things that didn't work so well
- Wooden buildings that were simply treated with wood preserver
survived the cold weather, but did not survive the hot. In the height
of summer, the wood warped. It didn't warp much, but it was enough
to break the glue bonds. Some of the structures I finished this
way had to be thrown away. Even the most matt of matt varnish has
a slight glossy sheen, and this doesn't look entirely realistic.
However, it looks a lot more realistic than something that's
fallen to bits.
- The overhanging eaves of buildings provide a natural
habitat for snails. In G scale, a snail is about two feet high,
so a snail-infested building is a surreal sight. The only
solution to this problem (or, at least, the only solution I can think
of that does not involve cruelty to animals) is to avoid making
buildings that are shaped so as to provide a rain shelter for beasties.
- If I could have used curves with a greater that two-foot
radius, I would have done. It takes considerably more power
to push a train around such a tight bend, than it does
on the straight. This fact, combined with the slight gradient
to one of my curves, meant that the 1-amp transformer
supplied with the LGB starter set was only just up to the
job. Sometimes after 10-15 minutes continuous running in hot
weather, it would trip and shut down, always at exactly the
same spot on the track.
- A plastic rubble sack does not make a good pond liner.
After a whole summer, the plastic had become brittle, and
would probably not have held water. In any event, surface
evaporation was sufficient to dry my one-gallon pond in
about two days, so there was never any water in it anyway.
Next time I'll grit my teeth and fork out for a proper
pond liner, and dig a deeper hole.
- I remain of the opinion that nothing looks as much like wood as
wood itself. I am very pleased with how some of my wooden
buildings turned out. However, although constructing buildings
of modest size (e.g., 8 inches or so to the longest side)
is not too expensive or time-consuming, I've found that the time
and expense don't scale with the size of the building. As you
go from a building that is about 8 inches to a side, to one that
is about 16 inches to a side, then the volume of the building increases
by a factor of eight -- this is just geometry. So the time and
cost don't merely double, they increase four- to eight-fold, as
you'll need a stronger and more complex internal structure, and perhaps
four times as much exterior wood. In addition, things like doors and
windows become large enough to need their own detail, and at this
size you have to think about the problems of wiring the interior
lighting (if you have it). A building of this size can't be lit by
a single grain-of-wheat bulb on a stalk. None of this is a huge
problem if you have a few modest buildings on a small railway, but
cost and time are likely to be prohibitive on a larger railway if
there's just one person doing most of the work and that person
has a day-job as well. In short, I have resigned myself to the need
to investigate other construction methods in future.
Disasters
- It was a mistake to plant tomato bushes around the railway. Tomatos
grow furiously, and in about two weeks in midsummer they had
infiltrated the buildings and made the track impassable.
- It was a mistake to use ordinary PVA glue when I ran out of
the waterproof variety. If you need your glue to hold together
outdoors, it needs to be waterproof. One of my bridges fell
apart completely because I used non-waterproof glue.
Things I wish I'd known
- Cats play havoc with bare soil. If there was more than about
ten square inches of soil showing, some wretched moggie or other would
come and dig it up. I didn't mind the holes so much, as the fact
that they'd throw the mud onto the rails. In the end, I cut six-inch
lengths from the end branches of an apple tree we were drying out for firewood,
and stuck them into every bare piece of soil. They not only
looked like trees (albeit very autumnal trees), but their spikiness
thoroughly
repelled the cats. Hah!
- When it rains heavily, exposed soil shrinks under its own weight.
This had the effect of lowering the surface of the soil bed by
about an inch after I'd filled it to flush with the brickwork.
If I'd known this, I'd have ordered enough soil to top it up.
- G-scale trains are surprisingly tolerant of uneven, dirty,
and misaligned track. However, they are not even slightly tolerant
of gradients. On my new garden railway, I'm laying out the track
with a spirit level to ensure it's perfectly level.
©1994-2006 Kevin Boone, all rights reserved